Anycubic kobra gcode reddit

Anycubic kobra gcode reddit. I have a short list of options to replace the Ender 5 in I just got a kobra 2 max 2 days ago and nothing is working for it. This leads me to believe that it somehow does not level the bed or that my start G code is not correct. Anycubic Kobra Neo - Prusa Slicer. Hello u/Hungry-Peach-56, . With that being said you MAY need the M420 S1 command. Also, 82 degrees on the bed is typically too high for PETG on a textured PEI bed. And an easy to follow installation guide. I was a total noob a month ago and have used my neo to print a dozen or so large pieces. The kobra settings for cura work well too if you add a raft and set the offset closer to the bed/increase bed temp but they take a long time to print. Start gcode: G28 ;Home. anycubic kobra plus files. 0 F3000 ; Move Z Had the Kobra max for about 4 months now and love the large bed, although the back right side came a little wonky, and after the first test print, it embedded plastic into the glass. And I picked up Cura slicer for it. •• Edited. 8 - Go back to the main menu, this time select "Install", and once again, install Klipper - This time, the Catboat repository will be used instead. Having said that, the mega s is a great place to start. , and software that isn’t designed to restrict you in any way. I finally moved into a place where I have room to set up my Kobra Max printer. Going with some lines from the profiles provided into start g code on top of anycubic mega zero profile, switch to Marlin 2 aswell. I used the anycubic slicer successfully on my Kobra Max printer Trying to get Cura set up with Anycubic Kobra 2. Same goes for the owl. My end g-code is as follows:- M104 S0 M140 S0 G92 E1 G1 E-5 F3000 G1 Z+0. Hi all, so I'm trying to work out the best code for my Kobra Go profile on Cura so that the bed comes forward when a print is finished instead of to the back of the printer as it is now. cfg]. Make sure the proximity sensor is at the correct height. Once the code is reached, the printer will retract, raise 20mm, beep for 5 seconds then Octoprint (will Kobra 2 Problems. Autolevel the bed, set the z-offset and run a print without the command and see how it goes down. I've got both the Mega Pro and the Kobra max. I was using 3DPUK’s on Cura. When I get stl files from other sites and use the Anycubic slicer, I export the G-code to the USB and plug it in. But i like using orca slicer because of my other printers. obj /. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit What's the best settings and G-code for the Anycubic kobra plus in Cura? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Marlin Kobra Skew Fix. Kobra 2 pro Cura profile. 2- Sometimes after many times the Hotend gets Hot and Cold it can be that the NTC probe got a little bit loose. G1 X40 E25 F500 ; Extrude 25 mm of filament in 4 cm line. I’m guessing the hot end touched the corner and melted it, as the cube was also pulled off the bed. I lost the original micro SD card so I cannot read the gcode manual Update: 2 month review of Anycubic Kobra. Could anyone tell me if this looks good or if anything is amiss? Hi all. Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. ". [Image 1] Step 2: move flash drive with GCode to 3d printer. This just might be the end of my headaches. I have tried using G29 and M420 S1 in the start G-code but it didn't change anything. Using Ultimaker Cura with some printer settings found off the net. I have ABL and before each print I level the bed with it but it seems like my printer just ignores it. When I try to print, the printer goes through the actions and then stops at the bottom left side. EitherStomach. This start code, "blob and swipe," originates from Prusa Slicer. Select it by typing its number and hit enter. 8mm or whatever. G1 E-2 F500 ; Retract a little. how to turn on/off light using G-Code commands? 22K subscribers in the anycubic community. 1. stl / . Had it perfectly leveled for the benchy. 2 of which were totally useless. 34 votes, 28 comments. I assembled my first 3D printer today (I've run them in the past, but they belonged to my college). Select “Add a non-networked printer”. I've fine-tuned this for my personal use. Step 1: I turn the STL file in to a GCode file using the export function on PrusaSlicer 2. -I've reformatted, though it was already set to fat32 Looking for a good start g-gcode and or orca slicer profile for anycubic kobra 2 max. those were 2 things I need to do routinely when switching filament on my anycubic kobra plus . ; AnyCubic Kobra Custom Start G-code. You'll find infos about all that stuff at the abovementioned page as well. In the process of tuning my new Kobra and, for the most part, it's been amazing right out of the box. I initially used the filament change plugin in Cura 5. cfg where you also put in your start and end g-code, then you can just add the M600 macro in there and call the gcode. I'll have to compare the Gcode line by line later to see what the heck is going on with Cura 5. Other things you can check is if your bed is level to the X axis, if you have the command M420 S1 in your start G-code to load the bed levelling mesh, and also check your Z offset again, it can sometimes be really low (I have -2. 0. I edited my gcode file and put a M600 before last few layers so I can do some text in black. SYNYST3R1. Anycubic Kobra auto bed leveling not working. Bit of background on me, I bought an Ender 3 in 2019. So i just recently got an Anycubic kobra 2 max and so far it's pretty good. Maybe not exactly from each layer, but it is. I have been using Lychee with my Anycubic Mono resin printer. I bought a Kobra Plus, and I can't seem to make the files appear. Towards the end of the print the Kobra stopped extruding (Eryone PLA+, Nozzle temp 210, bed temp 65). Thanks in advance for your help. Alter the bed size to match the Anycubic Kobra. Klipper works. G1 E-1 F500 ; Undo a bit. the only option I have on the display is "Pause". I was able to select a slightly smaller model than mine (Anycubic Kobra Plus was not in the list, but the Kobra base model was). It doesn’t listen to any starting gcode from slicers and 3/3 prints have failed. When i printing with PETG i have no problems or maybe it's not critical and don't see it. And if you're using the profile from Anycubic for the Neo: change the retraction distance setting to <1mm - it's set to 6mm in their profile, which is way too much for the direct drive of the Neo. Kobra 2 does not use klipper, the Standard Kobra 2 runs marlin. I dont want to continue using the Anycubic Slicer because i feel limited with the settings. Kobra 2 Neo running Klipper (with config and guide) This is the follow up post with my now somewhat stable config. If not and you have calipers or rulers with millimeters I can give you a measurement of how far mine is. Create a new printer and select the Anycubic Vyper. I set the cura custom printer to the right dimensions and have checked the gcode. I just got the Kobra for my first 3D printer, it's been very beginner friendly. If you are like me, and have your windows "size" scaling increased over 100% you won't see the buttons in anycubic slicer, you need to set the windows size scaling to 100%. What have other people been doing with the printer? Have other people been having issues as well? I've been Googling to try and find a solution to pause a print and then resume it on my Kobra so I can add magnets into the model, but haven't found any solutions. Problem 1: The pre-loaded test models show the full A community for sharing and promoting free/libre and open-source software (freedomware) on the Android platform. Replace the startup G-Code with the Ender 3 startup G-Code. Only issue I have is Anycubic only seems to allow block supports and I Starting GCode questions. Any other gcode settings recommended. Note im new to this, but I found a profile pretty quickly online, I would have to look for it again but it was working and had some custom g-code to reduce the ammount of filiment waste when first starting a print, I obv dont know if it was the best and had to myself as a newbie change some retraction settings to fix some bad stringing Personally after the setup showed in the yt video from Anycubic it was printing fine. Hey everyone, Long time lurker but first time posting. So, as the title says, I'm not getting the gcode preview on the screen or app on my Kobra 2 Max. I had 3 successful prints until I got to the 4th, a Minnie Mouse head for my niece to paint. : r/anycubic. Do auto bed leveling, then the z offset. Usually you need to go lower than 1mm retraction distance, like 0. The problem could be that I do not know what gcode flavor the kobra plus uses. 5 degree skew that I want to fix before I start printing everything I have lined up. Anycubic Kobra Max, 2 day review. . What I tried so far: Hello I have tried this GCODE ;PRINTLAPSE GCODE START G1 X0 Y0 F3000; ; Move the print head away from the object G4 P1; ; Wait until the movement ends M300 S1000 P500; ; Play a 1000Hz beep for 0. After that a popup menu opens where you can add new printers. So I know the printer itself is working. if it still doesn't work it could me the cable is damaged. I sent a warranty service request to Anycubic. After a little over 2 months, here is what occurred: Just like everyone else, I had bed leveling issues. If you are able you should print the tool Anycubic has on their site to make sure it's the correct distance from the nozzle. 3mf ) and slices it into usable code ( gcode ) using a slicing profile. Suggest slowing the speed down (when you generate your gcode model in cura) and possibly using the manual adjust knob for the extractor to control the amount that comes out . . As a work-around, I was wondering if it was possible to add GCode Hello, guys! I have an issue of my Kobra. But i need a good start g-code. The one i got from the slicer of anycubic seems to work fine but it doesn't do bed leveling I've been trying to print two color name plates. The printer pauses moves the print head to the home position and I can change the filament color manually. Background - I have an old Anycubic Mono resin printer that's a tiny workhouse and I love it. I ended up disassembling the hot end and clearing the jam then replacing the nozzle with the If you can't put it indoors consider using an enclosure for your printer. G1 X70 F4000 ; Quickly wipe away from the filament line. I was getting them by using the Anycubic slicer but I don't really like it, so switched back to Cura, which is not generating them. Anycubic kobra 2 pro end g code i am using cura for the slicer and followed the document on anycubic website for the profile and setting, but after my print the nozzle doesn't go to the top of the z-axis. G0 X0 Y0 F9000 ; Move forward. • 6 mo. 2. 4 ; Lower to bed. Scroll down, open the Custom menu and select “Custom FFF printer”. Some slicers put the settings in comments at the very end of the gcode. Make sure you’ve set up ArcWelder, or if you’re using OrcaSlicer, just check the Arcs box in the settings. The first 2-3 layers are ideal, but after i need to Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro problem Hi everybody, my printer/extruder makes clicking noises (Even with the presliced speedbanshe). Take a look at the gcode using a text editor like notepad++ or wordpad, and scroll to the end. Currently I run with the SUNLU PLA Grey, which worked fine before. Does the manual temp settings you adjust on the touch screen of the kobra plus/max (bed temp, nozzle temps for pla) override the gcode from the cura profile you load in via the micro sd? Or is it the other way around? I only ask because I set up some profiles and exported the gcode from cura 5. New to 3D printing and trying to get Cura set up with Anycubic Kobra 2. 3 F3000 G28 X0 Y0 M84 I use Orcaslicer, a fork of BambuStudio. This is the current status: G1 X180 E25 F500 ; Extrude 25mm of filament in a 5cm line. if you look in the end code, you should see somewhere a G1 X0 Y0, it represents XY going back to home position which is 0. It does seem like I have about a 0. My z-offset seems to go up from layer ro layer. Something happened at the end of the print. If I press it, I get the "Paused, waiting for cache command to complete But you can try uploading them to gcode. Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. This means software you are free to modify and distribute, such as applications licensed under the GNU General Public License, BSD license, MIT license, Apache license, etc. Cura is driving me nuts I can get a decent print but the blobby details or ugly seams are killing me! Means, AC seems to go the closed source way with these new models! Maybe even firmware updates will only be able via online access thru their app, as AC states in their post about the upcoming cloudservice and app: "Anycubic Kobra 2 Max, Pro & Plus now support the Anycubic App for remote management, firmware updates, and real-time monitoring. It’s the default setting Anycubic tells you to use when I set up the printer in Cura. 0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15 mm. To create a new profile for the Anycubic Kobra, follow these steps: At the top of the Cura interface, click “Settings” and then “Printer” and “Add Printer…”. Works alot better then cura, make sure to add the bed leveling mesh g code g28 then m420s. For the anycubic slicer you click "export gcode" and select local disk. 5cm from the left edge. The first 2-3 layers are ideal, but after i need to ADMIN MOD. 13. Marlin (Kobra2 firmware) and RepRap (Base for Octoprint) use the same arguments for G1 code. I'm playing with the start gcode for my Kobra 2 Pro. G92 E0. 10 for example) 1. Anycubic Kobra . While the pandemic was going on, I was admittedly having more modding the printer and doing upgrades than I was actually printing things out, so things got away from me to the point where the E3 was basically in a pile of parts in a corner of the room for Below is the start gcode I copied from someone else. I know the code for Marlin is: #if ENABLED(SKEW_CORRECTION) #define XY_SKEW_FACTOR -0. I also imported the recommended PLA profile they include on the usb. 2 - Save the GCode and open it in a text editor. Lychee seems to cause the print head to press into the print bed. There’s no settings provided by Anycubic yet. This won't be applied though as the retraction speed is Start with the simplest material first. Wondering if I should add the load command you have? ; AnyCubic Kobra Custom Start G-code M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Heat bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}; Heat extruder G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes M420 S1 ; Enable Bed Levelling Mesh Kobra Go. Did some cold pulls, cleand the nozzle with the cleaningtool, raised the printingtemperarure to 230 and raised the z-offset. Slice the same file in Anycubic slicer and it prints fine. cfg macro in your printer. I copied the Start and End G-Code from a Kobra 2 and also my settings from the Kobra Plus and changed the bed size after after copying each printer but it just wont print correctly when slicing the STL file in Cura. exe) and it won't export the modified slice to the removable drive. I've imported the STL into Anycubic Slicer (and also tried Lychee) and sliced the STL into a gcode uploaded it to my Octoprint (also tried printing via SD Card from the printer directly) and then started to print. Now it is . 1 and each exported code has their own temp Kobra 2 Max advice - talk me into or out of it. If it doesn't then your bed leveling issues may lay Gcode recommendations for kobra max. G1 Z15. the slicer is a piece of software that takes 3d models ( usually . The only things I've done are calibrating x,y,z steps for dimensional accuracy for the start gcode I'm still using the default one provided by them in the profiles for prusaslicer. Reply. Here is the GCode they sent me to turn on and off the filament sensor. 3 - Replace the GCode with this sequence: 4 - Upload to Octoprint and proceed as normal. ago • Edited 6 mo. I need to disable the power recovery for a start as it's causing fully artifacts. Code to change where the build plate finishes after print. I also have an Ender 5 Plus and I hate it. Go back to the main menu and select the "Advanced" option. 0 F1200 ;Move the platform down 15mm. 0 is at the back so what i did on mine is change it to 220 since its the length of my kobra. Screen doesn’t work Audi z offset doesn’t ; AnyCubic Kobra and Kobra Max Custom Start G-code M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Heat bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}; Heat extruder G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Wait for bed to get up to temperature M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}; Wait for extruder to get up to temperature G1 Z2. Check first if wiring is correct. I lost the original micro SD card so I cannot read the gcode manual Check first if wiring is correct. Other variants run klipper but they’re entirely different printers and the profiles are completely incompatible. Better don't print that one with the Neo (or the regular Kobra as that's a DD as well). there should be a lot of youtube videos on how to use a slicer ( most used ones are cura and prusaslicer right now ) here is something to get you Model previews on the gcode on Kobra 2 Max. They sent me 3 videos to watch. I cannot seem to get my kobra plus to recognize my gcode files. I believe the easiest way of setting up the Kobra in Cura would be. Setting it back to 0 resolved the issue. I've tried a few different ones but none of them stop at the right 1 - Slice in Cura (or whatever) and get the slicer to insert the M600 command at your chosen layer. As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the Simplify3D picture guide. I was attempting to use Prusa slicer (supporting the printer right off the bat was nice) and ran into a snag using the custom gcode utility to configure a temp tower (something about not being able to find arcweld. Adhesion, in my opinion, can be way too strong, so i actually started printing brims just to remove part easily. Unofficial, not affiliated with Anycubic. this. The auto leveling and larger bed make it well worth it. I'm just posting my update from them I just received for anyone else searching for mounting evidence of Anycubic shady practices and license violations -and listing it in r/Klipper because until they do noone is really able to get Klipper working on the Kobra systems without a new board/chipset This loads the bed levelling mesh into memory and tells your printer to use it. M140 S {material_bed_temperature_layer_0}; Heat bed. Hi all, this is my current assessment of the Anycubic Kobra. Does anyone with a k2 max have any solutions or firmware or anything that I could use. gcode btw, also there 6mm are being used. This is my start G code: G28 ;Home. I did this for a couple of reasons: the first line, after zeroing the axes was too much in the middle of the plate. The firmware only sometimes does this automatically, so it’s better to have the code there so it does it every time. ago. Unfortunately Anycubic has f**ked up the mainboard of the regular Kobra by using a TMC2209 (X) with the address 0 and a TMC2208 (E0) on the same UART pin. Kobra 2 Neo GCode Flavor I’ve searched and searched and have found nothing. ws and see if you find the temperature and speeds. well the sensor either opens or closes a circuit. -I've reformatted, though it was already set to fat32 SYNYST3R1. This keeps happening though. Trying to get Cura set up with Anycubic Kobra 2. That could be the issue. 5 seconds Edit: if you create a file gcode. I have tried everything. So you can unplug the sensor to either leave it open or close the circuit with a paper clip or dupont cable to trick the board. Check if the Screw is tight and the NTC is not loose. cfg by adding [include gcode. G92 E0 ; zeroing the extrusion length. Troubleshooting. And see if it makes a difference. Even at 100% scaling, at 1080p the export button layer height is set to . 7. Plus, you will grow out of the mega s. -I tried placing them in any of the folders on the given drive as well outside them, and I've erased all the data and left the Gcodes only. After that run the exact same print but edit the gcode to add the M420 S1 to the start (after G28). New Kobra 2. swapping color, pressed resume. I have the following start and end g-codes copied from the Prusaslicer ini they provide. They both work very well. if you want 80% just calculate 80% of yours and set that value for Y. Hi are there any GitHub, Reddit threads or sites for recomended gcode I can add to start of my cura slice projects. Can't speak to using it with default Marlin. I know there is a script built-in for cura for creating thumbnails (and Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro not printing GCode files properly. On Cura I can get the print to pause, but not resume and on Prusa it just ignores any pause command in the GCode. I just got my Kobra 2 a couple days ago. I have done this one other time by manually pausing the print close to the end. 9 - Now we need to compile the firmware. Flashable file. Ignore any suggestions Anycubic has specifically for the Neo, and adjust your Z height after manually moving the nozzle as close to the center of the bed as you can get. Failing print. The GCode viewer shows the file models properly. So if you activate UART for the X- or E0-stepper klipper gets confused when it gets responses from two stepper drivers on the same address/channel and if you deactivate UART for the X-axis Yes. Last print resulted in a big glob pushed back and up into the heat block assembly. The only reason I Mentioned the owl was because it was a gcode file already. G0 Z0. It's finnicky and is a constant drain of parts and fine tuning to get even mediocre prints out of it. 2. Then, I increased the print size to I've been Googling to try and find a solution to pause a print and then resume it on my Kobra so I can add magnets into the model, but haven't found any solutions. You need a slicer like Cura or PrusaSlicer. I’m using the default Marlin (legacy) flavor for slicing, but I’m not sure it’s the correct choice. 1). AC set 40mm/s retraction speed in the profile. (I use this so it prints a line to prime the print head on the side, rather than a gloop of So of i a trying to get my kobra plus setup in Prusaslicer, do i follow those instructions, and just change my print area size setting? The gcode is also a bit hard for me to figure out where exactly he is mentioning the specific start/stop points. It’s my settings (or Anycubic recommended). Looking for a good start g-code for anycubic kobra 2 max that does nozzle wipe and bed leveling SO i've been trying to find a good start g-code to use in orca slicer for the anycubic kobra 2 max. Issued a M600 in gcode file. When I set the Z offset in the middle of the bed it is off by quite a bit in the corners. Just got my Kobra Max 2 and it prints the test prints successfully. ;Prime the extruder. 23K subscribers in the anycubic community. Same stl files with the same settings and the same start up gcode and I get one that is not level (Cura 5. In Ultimaker Cura, under your printer settings, input the following start code: G1 X60 E25 F500 ; Extrude 25mm of filament in a 5cm line. But if i print with TPU 75A i have issue with lines adhesion. You add that gcode to start code of cure and you’re done. Now check with a multimeter in Ohm´s Mode if the Values are like the Values in the Chart. Then sliced my own file with AnycubicSlicer, and it was rubbing on the build plate. I do have previous experience with CNC and Gcode. Step 3: Open file on printer. -I sliced stl files into gcode on Cura with the same profiles as indicated in manual. First, only been printing 2 weeks. I tried printing with the glass bed and found that the glass bed was warping ever so slightly. G92 E0 ; Reset extrusion length. 5mm, 0. Maybe look around in r/Klippers or search the Klipper docs or the web for further info on that. New to 3D printing. Kobra Go. Some code removed from the start, just doing I use the following line on my Kobra 2 start g-code: G1 X60 E25 F500 ; Extrude filament in a 5cm line. I've been printing on my Anycubic Kobra for a few days now and I've encountered a problem. Start at 70 and adjust from there as needed. Realized that setting the z-offset within the slicer program was essentially an additional z-offset on top of the z-offset that the printer had. Checked the Gcode cant see it changing the z offset. It has been good for me, there are threads here with good settings to use. 007. <edit> (I figured this out, see below I'm three months into calibrating my anycubickobra2 neo with no results. 10k acceleration Config file with basic macros and tuned input shaper and pressure advance settings. 0) and one that is perfectly level (Cura 4. The only issue I've had is the Klipper settings are not correct. I want it to do the auto bed leveling and use the z offset button in the back of the heat bed and also do a nozzle wipe on the silicone. However. nw gz bx jn ik es xu pj ih zn